Atenas’ Bulls, Beats, and Barrio Life

If you ever wander through the hills of Atenas, Costa Rica, you might stumble upon a curious sight: a circular arena that looks like it belongs in Spain, but somehow feels right at home here in Central America. That’s the Plaza de Toros de Atenas, the town’s bullring, standing proud as a symbol of both tradition and the town’s quirky, enduring spirit.

Bullfighting in Costa Rica is nothing like the blood-soaked spectacles you might imagine. Here, it’s “toros a la tica,” a uniquely Costa Rican take where the bulls walk away unscathed, and the human participants test their agility and nerves instead. Think of it as extreme dodgeball with a lot more adrenaline and slightly fewer safety regulations. Over the decades, this tradition has been a way for communities to gather, celebrate, and show off a bit of bravado without causing lasting harm to anyone… well, except maybe a bruised ego.

The Plaza itself has seen its share of action. Originally built to host these bull events, it quickly became a social hub for Atenas, a place where the entire town could meet under the sun, share stories, and sometimes marvel at someone doing a daring, slightly foolish dance around a bull. And while bull events aren’t on the calendar every weekend, the arena has evolved beautifully. Today, it hosts concerts, festivals, and community gatherings, proving that even historic spaces can learn a few new tricks without losing their soul.

Atenas, beyond the bullring, is a town that seems to have been kissed by the gods of perfect weather and laid-back living. Coffee plantations spill across the hillsides, old oxcart monuments dot the streets, and every April, the town bursts into colour and music for its annual fiesta. The Plaza is often at the centre of this, bridging the gap between history and modern life. You can watch someone test their reflexes against a bull one day, and then sway to live music with a cold drink in hand the next.

For Costa Rica, the Plaza de Toros de Atenas is more than just a ring. It’s a snapshot of cultural ingenuity, a place where tradition and modernity meet, where a sense of humour and community spirit still matter. It reminds visitors and locals alike that culture isn’t frozen in time; it’s lived, celebrated, and occasionally, dodged at high speed.

So if you find yourself in Atenas, consider stopping by the Plaza. You might catch a bit of history, a touch of adrenaline, and maybe even some laughter at a spectacle that’s uniquely Costa Rican. And if you’re clever, wear red. Locals will nod approvingly, and you’ll fit right in with the spirit of a place that knows how to take tradition seriously without taking itself too seriously.

This is a picture of the Plaza de Toros, one that I took from one of our favourite restaurants in Atenas: Restaurante Elevé, where you can have a great meal at a reasonable price, while enjoying an amazing view. Joxan and his staff share more on their Facebook page.