Under Grumpa's Hat

Before I dive in, let me say this: opinions are like belly buttons: everyone’s got one, and some are a little more exposed than others in a place like Costa Rica. So, no, this isn’t a travel brochure or a scientific breakdown. It’s just my personal take on why I’ve fallen for this little mountain town called Atenas, nestled in the heart of Costa Rica. It’s got character, quirks, and charm… kind of like your favourite uncle who always shows up with a story and a mysterious stain on his shirt.

So, here’s the good, the bad, and the downright what-the-heck-is-that of life here.

The Good

The Weather
If Goldilocks was shopping for a climate, she’d settle in Atenas. Not too hot, not too cold, just right. The altitude takes the edge off the heat, and while you still sweat when you work, you’re not drenched just from breathing. Those beach folks can keep their tropical oven. I’ll visit now and then, soak up the salt and sun, then return home to air that doesn’t feel like soup and clothes that don’t double as dish rags.

The People
If you treat Ticos and Ticas with kindness and a bit of humility, they’ll treat you like family… even better, sometimes, depending on your family. On our first trip to Guanacaste, after doing some shopping, we returned to the car to find a flat tire. Three separate strangers pulled over to help, one after the other. No fuss, just friendly smiles and helpful hands. It’s like kindness is contagious here, and broken Spanish is enough to catch it. You try, they appreciate it. And you’ll be amazed how far a smile, a “hola” and a “pura vida” can take you.

The Fauna
It’s like National Geographic moved in and forgot to tell you. From cicadas with louder opinions than most politicians, to butterflies doing their best Cirque du Soleil impression, nature here doesn’t just whisper, it performs. Iguanas sunbathe like they own the place, and geckos will make themselves at home on your ceiling like tiny, chirping roommates. You’ll find yourself naming them and, weirdly, missing them when they don’t show up.

Pura Vida
It’s more than a slogan. It’s a survival mechanism. Life happens slowly here, and when it doesn’t, people still pretend it does. Stuck in traffic? Pura vida. Waiter forgot your order? Pura vida. Rain cancelled your hike? Grab a beer and watch the clouds roll in and… Pura Vida. Stress is politely shown the door, and gratitude is poured generously like good coffee: black, strong, and best sipped slowly.

The Bad

The Traffic
Driving in Atenas is like playing Mario Kart with no reset button. Motorcycles weave through gaps no thicker than a rum-soaked toothpick. Trucks and buses crawl like sleepy giants, and someone, somewhere, will try to pass you. It can be on the left, the right, maybe from the sky if they had wings. The rules of the road here are more like polite suggestions, often ignored and occasionally honk.

The Rain
I actually love the rain, but it’s got a personality. Mornings have often been postcard-perfect, but by mid-afternoon, the clouds gather like gossiping neighbours and suddenly unleash a downpour that could fill your shoes in 30 seconds. If you forgot a towel, a cushion, or your laundry on the line… consider it rinsed. In Costa Rica, Mother Nature doesn’t knock. She just walks in with muddy boots.

The Ugly Pura Vida

The Language
Spanish is beautiful, don’t get me wrong. But Tico Spanish is like regular Spanish on an espresso bender. They don’t speak, they sprint. Conversations can feel like verbal dodgeball, and just when you think you’ve caught a word or two, they’ve already finished the paragraph and moved on. I’ve learned to smile, nod, and save my dignity with a “Habla más lenta por favor!” while I play mental charades.

Venom and Poison
Here’s a free science lesson that may save your pet’s life, or at least your vet bill. Venom is injected, like by snakes and scorpions. Poison is absorbed or ingested, like some frogs or fuzzy caterpillars. Costa Rica has both, and neither are known for their hospitality. Most are not dangerous to humans but they can be for pets. And since our dogs are basically four-legged toddlers with no sense of danger, it’s worth knowing what’s lurking in the bushes.

Final Thoughts

Costa Rica isn’t perfect, and neither is life. But for every chaotic traffic moment or surprise rainstorm, there’s a sunset over the mountains, a friendly face at the market, or a gecko chirping you to sleep. It’s a place where simplicity becomes luxury, and where life slows down just enough to remind you that you’re living it. Atenas, with its quirks and beauty, reminds me daily that joy doesn’t always need polish. It just needs presence.

Pura vida, my friends. It’s not just a phrase. It’s a choice.